Spiral Cake Pop Stand Assembly Instructions

 Spiral Cake Pop Stand Assembly

When you receive your stand you will find in the box a round base, a small bag of washers, and the "sticks" with the support rod.  

You will find the individual sticks shrink wrapped on the ends and the support rod inserted into them.  Pull the rod out and make sure to leave the blue tape on the end of the rod in place until it's time to install it.

Unwrap the sticks and place them on the table in the exact same order as you unpack them.

Base Assembly

The next step is to install the support rod into the base.

You'll find a nut and washer on the end of the rod covered with blue tape.  Remove the tape making sure the nut and washer stay on the rod.  The nut and washer should be left on the rod exactly where they are.  I have already pre-assembled your stand to make sure they are at the right depth.

Next, insert the end of the rod into the base and screw it into the threaded tnut inserted into the base. Continue turning the rod until the nut and washer bottom out onto the base.

Turn the base over so you can see the bottom and check the end of the rod to make sure it is flush with the bottom of the tnut.

You may need to raise/lower the nut on the rod to get it just right.

Once the depth is correct, use a 7/16 wrench or pliers to tighten the nut on the rod pretty tight.  When tightening the nut, hold the rod so it does not turn.  If the rod goes any further in and sticks out past the tnut, you'll come up short on the top which will require you to unstack all the sticks, readjust the rod and reassemble it.

You should be here now.

The "Sticks"

There are a total of 20 sticks.  On the bottoms you'll see I have marked them all with an "A" or a "B" near the center holes.  There are 2 special ones.  The bottom stick has 4 felt dots on it, and the very top stick has a wood button installed in it to cover up the tnut that is installed in it.

The difference between A and B sticks is the cake pop stick hole placement.  The A sticks have holes closer to the outside edges.

Locate the bottom "B" stick with the 4 felt dots.  Place it on the rod with the felt dots facing the base.  The larger recessed hole is there to go over the nut and washer on the rod.

After the bottom stick is installed, take a washer from the bag and put it on the rod.  This will be done between every stick until you reach the top.

Your 2nd stick should be one marked with an "A".  Continue stacking the sticks, with washers in between each one, making sure you alternate between A and B sticks.  When you get to the top ("A" stick with the button) you will need to place it on the end of the rod and turn it clockwise until it threads itself onto the rod.  Continue to tighten it until it's just snug.

It does not matter at this point if the sticks are aligned or just kind of "willy nilly".  I find it's helpful or at least less messy looking if you keep them all straight like the photo below.

Stick alignment

Time to make it look pretty!

The sticks can be placed however you want but I set them up like this.

I line the fronts and backs up like so.

It might take a couple of try's, and perhaps tightening the top stick a little more to hold things as you arrange them.  Once you have them arranged how you want them, turn the top piece a few more times to tighten everything up good and snug.

All Done!

If you have any questions please let me know.

Mike

7 Tiered Staggered Elevations Stand

Reference Photo

Your stand fully assembled

First thing to do is put the rods in the base.  Watch this 2 minute video and it'll show how to do it correctly.

There is a "front" to the stand. The (2) 4" rods face front and are 14" apart.  See the picture below for the placement of the rest.

Next, slide the spacers onto the rods.

After the spacers are all on, notice that a little bit of the rod is sticking above them?  This is where the top pieces will screw on to.  Refer back to the video to make sure you don't put the tops on upside down.  This is where 99% of assembly issues occur.

The tall center post uses the (2) 10 inch rounds.  The one with the hole (no tnut) goes on first.  Put a 4" spacer on top of it, then the other 10" piece with the tnut screws onto the end of the rod like the others.

Finish the other tops and you are done.

Spiral Cake Pop Stand Assembly Instructions

Spiral Cake Pop Stand Assembly

Find the support rod and bag of washers.  Put the washers to the side for now.

Place the base on the table.

The support rod has a nut and washer taped to one end.  Remove the tape but Leave the nut and washer on the rod  exactly where they are.

Place the end with the nut and washer in the hole in the center of the base and screw it into the tnut until it is flush with the edge of the tnut as shown below.

If too much of the end of the rod is sticking out, move the nut on the rod down a little bit.  If it's short, move the nut up.  Ideally you want it flush.

Once you are satisfied, tighten the nut with a 7/16 wrench or suitable tool.  Make sure it's good and snug.  There's no need to over-tighten it.

Unpack all the strips.  Try to leave them in the same order as I packed them.

Familiarize yourself with the individual parts. 

Bottom strip with felt dots.  This goes on the rod first with the felt dots resting on the face of the base.

This is the top piece with the button cap.  Save it until last.

The strips are marked "A" or "B" on the bottom side near the center hole.  The "A" strips have the first cake pop hole closest to the edge.  The bottom strip with the felt dots is a "B".

After you put on the bottom strip. place a washer on the rod and let it rest on the strip as shown.

Add an "A" strip next, then another washer.  Continue this process, alternating between "A" and "B" strips until you get to the top piece.

*** Don't forget to put a washer between each strip.***

Stack them as shown below.

Place the end of the rod into the bottom of the top strip that has the button cap. There is a tnut installed in the top piece just like in the base.  Turn the top piece clockwise until it threads itself onto the rod.  Spin it around a few time (like a propeller) until it stops by itself.

DO NOT tighten it further at this time.

Starting at the bottom, start arranging the strips.  The picture above shows how I do them, but they can be spread out if you want.

Once you have them arranged like you want them, give the top piece 2 or 3 turns at the most to tighten it up.  It just needs to be snug.  If you tighten it too much it will pull the tnut in the base through the material.

If, during the tightening process, any of the strips move, you can loosen the top piece slightly to correct the alignment.

Congratulations!  You're done.

Cupcake stand general assembly instructions.

**Important Assembly Update**

11/1/2019

On occasion I have had customers put the support rod into the top tier from the wrong side.  I have started putting donut stickers on the side the rod is to be inserted.  Insert the rod end into the middle of the donut and all is good.  If you see the donut after it's fully assembled, it's assembled wrong.

New stands with round spacers have a product upgrade.  The top spacer only will have a wood insert that will hopefully prevent any damage that can occur when the top tier is over tightened.

Put this spacer on last.

How to "shrink" a stand.

How to change a tnut

New Donut Stand with Assembly Guide.

 This is a new donut stand I built for Richard.  He needed 2 of them to face opposite ways and display the donuts in a staggered arrangement.

I used regular sized donuts from Dunkin Donuts to figure out the peg height and spacing.

Side View

I shipped it unassembled with two uprights, 3 shelves with 6 pegs, and 3 shelves with 5 pegs.  Screws for assembly were also included.

The back of the shelves are beveled and face towards the rear of the stand.

Start with the bottom shelf with 6 pegs.  Note how the screw goes in vertically.

Put the screw through the hole in the shelf so it pokes out as shown.  This makes it easier to align it with the hole in the upright.

Another view of me aligning the screw with the hole in the upright.

Once you have located the hole and have the point on the screw started into it, rotate the shelf to it's horizontal position as shown above.  Turn the screw by hand or with a Phillips screwdriver gently until you are sure it's going into the hole properly.

VERY IMPORTANT!

Leave all the screws loose (leave the screw head sticking up about 1/8 of an inch) in each shelf until you have all of them started into their respective holes.  You need to do this just in case the uprights need to be wiggled a little bit to line up some of the screws with the holes.

Alternate the shelves starting with the 6 peg, then a 5 peg, and so on all the way to the top.

After all the shelves are on, tighten the screws.  Turn them just enough to make them snug.  It's not necessary to crank down on them!

NOTE.

If you don't plan on taking it apart and want a permanent assembly, you can apply some wood glue to the area around the screw holes.

Putting decorations on my stands.

So you want to wrap the edges with ribbon?  What about jewels or other decorations?

You could use double sided sticky tape, but this is what usually happens with the paint when you pull it off.

I may have found a solution that won't harm the paint.  It's called Museum Wax  (click on the red link to see it on Amazon).  This big tub will probably last you forever.

My mother told me about it a while back.  She used it to hold down some very thin walled mercury glass candlesticks on her coffee table.  She has a cat that likes to play around them for some reason.  It's not supposed to damage the surfaces you put it on.

I got a bit to try it.  It reminds me of a thick, sticky chapstick.  It is softer when it's warm, so if you can, roll it around in your palm and warm it up first.

I made a few little balls of it about the size of a BB  (like this) o, and "smooshed" it on the corners.

I put the end of the ribbon on one of them and pressed it into the wax.

I stretched the ribbon tight to the other corner and pressed it into the wax again.  The stuff holds incredibly well.  I continued doing this all the way around.

The ribbon pulled right back off leaving the wax on the stand.  When I first tried to remove the wax, it smeared a bit with my fingers, so I'd recommend using a paper towel.  Don't be alarmed about the sticky residue.  I took a cloth and wiped it right off.  I couldn't even tell it was ever there!

I tried it on some old paint, some week old paint, and something I painted yesterday.  It didn't hurt the paint at all

I think this may be the answer!

Ladder Stand Assembly Instructions

Each side has 2 uprights and 3 cross braces.  Match the letters marked on each piece as shown.

Place the wide legs on top of the cross braces.  The legs have countersunk holes for the screws.  The holes close to the bottom are for the rope which is installed later.

Start all the screws by hand to make sure they get in the holes correctly.  Once you have them all in, tighten them up.  It's not necessary to over tighten them.  If you are going to leave it assembled, you can use some wood glue, but it's not required.

Position the 2 upright pieces end to end as shown and install the hinges.  Make sure they are positioned as shown with the "bump" in the center of the hinge facing up.  If you don't, they won't open properly.  You can take them back off and flip them over if this happens.

The rope has a knot already on one end.  Thread the end without the knot through the hole on one leg, then straight across to the other side.  You'll find that twisting the end of the rope as you are pushing it through the hole helps.

Once the rope is threaded through the uprights, tie a knot in the other end.  Try to make the knot so it ends up next to the line I marked on the rope.  This will keep the uprights at the proper width when opened up.  Trim off the excess rope.

Install the shelves.  They just lay across the cross braces.  No screws are needed.