Cupcake stand general assembly instructions.

**Important Assembly Update**

11/1/2019

On occasion I have had customers put the support rod into the top tier from the wrong side.  I have started putting donut stickers on the side the rod is to be inserted.  Insert the rod end into the middle of the donut and all is good.  If you see the donut after it's fully assembled, it's assembled wrong.

New stands with round spacers have a product upgrade.  The top spacer only will have a wood insert that will hopefully prevent any damage that can occur when the top tier is over tightened.

Put this spacer on last.

How to "shrink" a stand.

How to change a tnut

New Donut Stand with Assembly Guide.

 This is a new donut stand I built for Richard.  He needed 2 of them to face opposite ways and display the donuts in a staggered arrangement.

I used regular sized donuts from Dunkin Donuts to figure out the peg height and spacing.

Side View

I shipped it unassembled with two uprights, 3 shelves with 6 pegs, and 3 shelves with 5 pegs.  Screws for assembly were also included.

The back of the shelves are beveled and face towards the rear of the stand.

Start with the bottom shelf with 6 pegs.  Note how the screw goes in vertically.

Put the screw through the hole in the shelf so it pokes out as shown.  This makes it easier to align it with the hole in the upright.

Another view of me aligning the screw with the hole in the upright.

Once you have located the hole and have the point on the screw started into it, rotate the shelf to it's horizontal position as shown above.  Turn the screw by hand or with a Phillips screwdriver gently until you are sure it's going into the hole properly.

VERY IMPORTANT!

Leave all the screws loose (leave the screw head sticking up about 1/8 of an inch) in each shelf until you have all of them started into their respective holes.  You need to do this just in case the uprights need to be wiggled a little bit to line up some of the screws with the holes.

Alternate the shelves starting with the 6 peg, then a 5 peg, and so on all the way to the top.

After all the shelves are on, tighten the screws.  Turn them just enough to make them snug.  It's not necessary to crank down on them!

NOTE.

If you don't plan on taking it apart and want a permanent assembly, you can apply some wood glue to the area around the screw holes.

Putting decorations on my stands.

So you want to wrap the edges with ribbon?  What about jewels or other decorations?

You could use double sided sticky tape, but this is what usually happens with the paint when you pull it off.

I may have found a solution that won't harm the paint.  It's called Museum Wax  (click on the red link to see it on Amazon).  This big tub will probably last you forever.

My mother told me about it a while back.  She used it to hold down some very thin walled mercury glass candlesticks on her coffee table.  She has a cat that likes to play around them for some reason.  It's not supposed to damage the surfaces you put it on.

I got a bit to try it.  It reminds me of a thick, sticky chapstick.  It is softer when it's warm, so if you can, roll it around in your palm and warm it up first.

I made a few little balls of it about the size of a BB  (like this) o, and "smooshed" it on the corners.

I put the end of the ribbon on one of them and pressed it into the wax.

I stretched the ribbon tight to the other corner and pressed it into the wax again.  The stuff holds incredibly well.  I continued doing this all the way around.

The ribbon pulled right back off leaving the wax on the stand.  When I first tried to remove the wax, it smeared a bit with my fingers, so I'd recommend using a paper towel.  Don't be alarmed about the sticky residue.  I took a cloth and wiped it right off.  I couldn't even tell it was ever there!

I tried it on some old paint, some week old paint, and something I painted yesterday.  It didn't hurt the paint at all

I think this may be the answer!

Ladder Stand Assembly Instructions

Each side has 2 uprights and 3 cross braces.  Match the letters marked on each piece as shown.

Place the wide legs on top of the cross braces.  The legs have countersunk holes for the screws.  The holes close to the bottom are for the rope which is installed later.

Start all the screws by hand to make sure they get in the holes correctly.  Once you have them all in, tighten them up.  It's not necessary to over tighten them.  If you are going to leave it assembled, you can use some wood glue, but it's not required.

Position the 2 upright pieces end to end as shown and install the hinges.  Make sure they are positioned as shown with the "bump" in the center of the hinge facing up.  If you don't, they won't open properly.  You can take them back off and flip them over if this happens.

The rope has a knot already on one end.  Thread the end without the knot through the hole on one leg, then straight across to the other side.  You'll find that twisting the end of the rope as you are pushing it through the hole helps.

Once the rope is threaded through the uprights, tie a knot in the other end.  Try to make the knot so it ends up next to the line I marked on the rope.  This will keep the uprights at the proper width when opened up.  Trim off the excess rope.

Install the shelves.  They just lay across the cross braces.  No screws are needed.