Saturday, May 18, 2019


Reference Photo
Your stand fully assembled

First thing to do is put the rods in the base.  Watch this 2 minute video and it'll show how to do it correctly.

There is a "front" to the stand. The (2) 4" rods face front and are 14" apart.  See the picture below for the placement of the rest.

Next, slide the spacers onto the rods.

After the spacers are all on, notice that a little bit of the rod is sticking above them?  This is where the top pieces will screw on to.  Refer back to the video to make sure you don't put the tops on upside down.  This is where 99% of assembly issues occur.

The tall center post uses the (2) 10 inch rounds.  The one with the hole (no tnut) goes on first.  Put a 4" spacer on top of it, then the other 10" piece with the tnut screws onto the end of the rod like the others.

One tiny issue with your stand.
The 2 tops (with scribbles in the photo) are a very tight fit.  Had I had time I would have made them about 1/8" smaller.  I didn't catch it until I did the assembly myself.

Put one on, and securely tighten it down.  When you go to put the second one on, you will need to push the one on the left sideways with the palm of your hand so it gives you enough room to turn the second one.  If you don't, they will rub the paint on the edges of the tiers.

After the second top is tight you can let the one on the left go.  The two tops will touch each other, but it's okay at this point.

Finish the other tops and you are done.

Saturday, August 25, 2018

Spiral Cake Pop Stand Assembly Instructions

Spiral Cake Pop Stand Assembly

Find the support rod and bag of washers.  Put the washers to the side for now.
Place the base on the table.
The support rod has a nut and washer taped to one end.  Remove the tape but Leave the nut and washer on the rod  exactly where they are.

Place the end with the nut and washer in the hole in the center of the base and screw it into the tnut until it is flush with the edge of the tnut as shown below.

If too much of the end of the rod is sticking out, move the nut on the rod down a little bit.  If it's short, move the nut up.  Ideally you want it flush.
Once you are satisfied, tighten the nut with a 7/16 wrench or suitable tool.  Make sure it's good and snug.  There's no need to over-tighten it.

Unpack all the strips.  Try to leave them in the same order as I packed them.
Familiarize yourself with the individual parts. 

Bottom strip with felt dots.  This goes on the rod first with the felt dots resting on the face of the base.

This is the top piece with the button cap.  Save it until last.

The strips are marked "A" or "B" on the bottom side near the center hole.  The "A" strips have the first cake pop hole closest to the edge.  The bottom strip with the felt dots is a "B".

After you put on the bottom strip. place a washer on the rod and let it rest on the strip as shown.

Add an "A" strip next, then another washer.  Continue this process, alternating between "A" and "B" strips until you get to the top piece.

*** Don't forget to put a washer between each strip.***

Stack them as shown below.

Place the end of the rod into the bottom of the top strip that has the button cap. There is a tnut installed in the top piece just like in the base.  Turn the top piece clockwise until it threads itself onto the rod.  Spin it around a few time (like a propeller) until it stops by itself.

DO NOT tighten it further at this time.

Starting at the bottom, start arranging the strips.  The picture above shows how I do them, but they can be spread out if you want.

Once you have them arranged like you want them, give the top piece 2 or 3 turns at the most to tighten it up.  It just needs to be snug.  If you tighten it too much it will pull the tnut in the base through the material.

If, during the tightening process, any of the strips move, you can loosen the top piece slightly to correct the alignment.

Congratulations!  You're done.

Thursday, December 29, 2016

Cupcake stand general assembly instructions.

**Important Assembly Update**

On occasion I have had customers put the support rod into the top tier from the wrong side.  I have started putting donut stickers on the side the rod is to be inserted.  Insert the rod end into the middle of the donut and all is good.  If you see the donut after it's fully assembled, it's assembled wrong.

New stands with round spacers have a product upgrade.  The top spacer only will have a wood insert that will hopefully prevent any damage that can occur when the top tier is over tightened.

Put this spacer on last.

How to "shrink" a stand.

Sunday, July 17, 2016

New Donut Stand with Assembly Guide.

 This is a new donut stand I built for Richard.  He needed 2 of them to face opposite ways and display the donuts in a staggered arrangement.

I used regular sized donuts from Dunkin Donuts to figure out the peg height and spacing.

Side View

I shipped it unassembled with two uprights, 3 shelves with 6 pegs, and 3 shelves with 5 pegs.  Screws for assembly were also included.

The back of the shelves are beveled and face towards the rear of the stand.

Start with the bottom shelf with 6 pegs.  Note how the screw goes in vertically.

Put the screw through the hole in the shelf so it pokes out as shown.  This makes it easier to align it with the hole in the upright.

Another view of me aligning the screw with the hole in the upright.

Once you have located the hole and have the point on the screw started into it, rotate the shelf to it's horizontal position as shown above.  Turn the screw by hand or with a Phillips screwdriver gently until you are sure it's going into the hole properly.

Leave all the screws loose (leave the screw head sticking up about 1/8 of an inch) in each shelf until you have all of them started into their respective holes.  You need to do this just in case the uprights need to be wiggled a little bit to line up some of the screws with the holes.

Alternate the shelves starting with the 6 peg, then a 5 peg, and so on all the way to the top.

After all the shelves are on, tighten the screws.  Turn them just enough to make them snug.  It's not necessary to crank down on them!

If you don't plan on taking it apart and want a permanent assembly, you can apply some wood glue to the area around the screw holes.

Thursday, May 5, 2016

Putting decorations on my stands.

So you want to wrap the edges with ribbon?  What about jewels or other decorations?

You could use double sided sticky tape, but this is what usually happens with the paint when you pull it off.

I may have found a solution that won't harm the paint.  It's called Museum Wax  (click on the red link to see it on Amazon).  This big tub will probably last you forever.

My mother told me about it a while back.  She used it to hold down some very thin walled mercury glass candlesticks on her coffee table.  She has a cat that likes to play around them for some reason.  It's not supposed to damage the surfaces you put it on.

I got a bit to try it.  It reminds me of a thick, sticky chapstick.  It is softer when it's warm, so if you can, roll it around in your palm and warm it up first.

I made a few little balls of it about the size of a BB  (like this) o, and "smooshed" it on the corners.

I put the end of the ribbon on one of them and pressed it into the wax.

I stretched the ribbon tight to the other corner and pressed it into the wax again.  The stuff holds incredibly well.  I continued doing this all the way around.

The ribbon pulled right back off leaving the wax on the stand.  When I first tried to remove the wax, it smeared a bit with my fingers, so I'd recommend using a paper towel.  Don't be alarmed about the sticky residue.  I took a cloth and wiped it right off.  I couldn't even tell it was ever there!

I tried it on some old paint, some week old paint, and something I painted yesterday.  It didn't hurt the paint at all

I think this may be the answer!